Your complete guide to a winter trip to Ladakh
Your complete guide to a winter trip to Ladakh
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Synopsis
While most of the people believe that Ladakh is inaccessible in the winters, this may be the best time to visit Ladakh for the adventurous souls. Winters in Ladakh hardly see any tourists and you can have all of its stunning barre … Read more
While most of the people believe that Ladakh is inaccessible in the winters, this may be the best time to visit Ladakh for the adventurous souls. Winters in Ladakh hardly see any tourists and you can have all of its stunning barrenness to yourself. Visiting Ladakh in winters is a chance to see this magic land as it has existed for centuries.
Winter in Ladakh is very harsh and temperatures can plummet to lesser than -30 degree Celsius at night. So, be prepared for cold (brrr very cold) days and even colder nights. Everything will be frozen and there will be no running water in the taps. The streets look deserted and yet life goes on as usual. If you are lucky (or unlucky, depending on the severity of the snow), there is a huge possibility of experiencing snowfall while in Ladakh in the winters.
While the aim of this winter travel guide to Ladakh is to help prospective travellers prepare, it is best to prepare yourself for thinking practically and trusting the locals when it comes to dicey situations. Follow this winter guide to Ladakh and it is quite possible to have a holiday to remember and boast about!
A warning—if you are someone who is not fond of the cold or cannot bear cold climates, please give up the idea of visiting Ladakh in winter. The biggest battle will be with the cold, and it is more a mind game than anything else. It is better to be prepared for extreme cold conditions before landing at 3300m above sea level.
How to reach?
Travelling by both the road routes, the Manali-Leh Highway and Srinagar-Leh Highway, is not possible since they are not open in the snowy winters of Ladakh. Flying is the only way to reach Ladakh once roads are closed for the winter due to snow at the high passes. The Manali-Leh and Srinagar-Leh highways are generally closed by October-November and November-December respectively.
There are several airlines that operate regular flights to Leh in the winter. You can get on to one of the early morning flights from Delhi or Jammu and Srinagar; the frequency of flights from Delhi is impressively high. The airfare is quite cheap (if you book in advance) as there only a handful of people come to Ladakh in the winters.
Tip: It is better to wear 4-5 layers of clothing at the departing airport itself to prepare yourself for the imminent cold of the Leh airport.
While you are in the flight, there are dazzling endless views of the snowy Himalayas on a clear day. There are chances of flights being cancelled or postponed due to fog and sudden changes in weather, so do remember to keep buffer of a day or two while flying into/out of Leh in winter.
1. Transportation in Ladakh
There are a few buses that ply in the winters in Ladakh and proper information about them can be obtained at the bus station in Leh. Depending on the snowfall at various places, the frequency and routes of the buses is decided. Buses are a great way to travel for budget travellers, also giving a chance to mingle with the locals. Commuting by motorcycle is not advised due to the harsh cold and increased chances of slipping on snow.
If you are looking for a comfortable way to travel, hired taxis (SUVs) are the best bet for travelling in the winter in Ladakh. Although taxi fares in Ladakh are quite steep, it is the most convenient option and also gives the flexibility to stop as often as you want for photography and sightseeing. Add to it the fact that the drivers, usually, will know someone at the destination to provide for a home stay in the bitter cold.
Shared taxis run for some places near the Polo Ground early in the morning, and it is best to make a reservation. The taxi drivers will be reluctant to take direct bookings and will, instead, direct you to a travel agent. The main reason for it lies in the fact that if they get stuck somewhere the travel agents are liable to send another car to take you out safely. Dreamland Tours & Travels is a trusted choice and is a well-known name; remember to bargain when you are making a deal.
A recommended tip for winter travel within Ladakh, is to make sure that you arrive before dark to arrange for accommodation and food without any hassle.
2. Places that can and cannot be visited
Most of the internal roads in Ladakh are open even in the winter and traffic is sparse. So it is possible to visit most of the places in Ladakh even in the winter. Roads to Nubra Valley, Pangong Tso, Tso Moriri, remnants of the Indus Valley Civilisation, Sham Valley, Lamayuru, Kargil etc are all open and accessible throughout the winter.
It is important to know that in case of heavy snowfall, there are chances of the road being closed for a day or two and might hamper your plans. It is better to keep a day or two extra as heavy snowfall at Khardung La and Chang La may cause the roads to be shut for vehicular traffic.
The weather is bitterly cold in Changthang (near Tso Moriri) and the regions of Chushul and Hanle may be out of bounds in the winters. Stay prepared, for the unbearable cold (sometimes -40 degrees Celsius) makes Changthang a difficult place to visit in the winters even if you reach it.
It is also advisable to make have the vehicle window panes always rolled up so that there is minimal contact with the frigid air. Also remember that it is unbearably cold at Khardung La and Chang La (two of the highest passes in the world) and it makes sense to stay back in the vehicle while the driver makes the entries with the Army at the check post.
Remember to check with the locals in Leh about the prevailing weather and road conditions for the places you are heading to before embarking on a journey in the wintry Ladakh.
3. Accommodation (hotels/homestays that are open all year)
In Leh, most of the guesthouses, homestays and hotels are closed for the winter and the ones that are open are either costly or too simple. Recommended places to stay in Leh in the winters are Hotel Tso Kar, Padma Hotel, Shanti Hotel—all located near the Fort Road; you can also consider the Oriental Guesthouse that is located on Chanspa Road.
Hotels may quote exorbitant tariffs including central heating etc, depending on your bargaining skills and the ability of managing the cold; the tariffs can be brought down to around INR 1000-1500 per night.
Accommodation options at Pangong Tso
Homestays at Spangmik, Man and Merak are the best options of staying near the lake. There are local families that stay year round and will be happy to provide food and stay for a small fee. Tangtse is a better place for those who cannot bear the cold.
Accommodation options at Tso Moriri & Changthang
It is possible to make a homestay arrangement at Korzok, the village overlooking Tso Moriri. Alternative staying arrangements can also be made at Chumathang, which is a hot spring town; one resort in Changthang claims to be centrally-heated even in the winter. One of the homestays in Hanle is also open throughout the year.
Accommodation options at Nubra Valley
The Olthang Guest House in Diskit is a good choice for staying in Nubra Valley, while there are other homestays as well. Nubra Valley is at a lower altitude than Leh and is not bitterly cold. There are a few homestays available in Hunder and Turtuk as well.
Accommodation options at Sham Valley
A few homestays are open and in the villages of Yangthang, Hemis Skupachan and Timisgam.
Accommodation options near the Indus Valley Civilization region
Accommodation in homestays and guest houses is possible in Khaltse, Domkhar and Garkone. It is also easy to find a place to stay in other noteworthy places such as Likir, Alchi, Lamayuru and Kargil.
4. Major Ladakh attractions in winters
Although the attractions in Ladakh for summers and winters stay, largely, the same; the drastic change in landscape means it is quite possible to think of Ladakh as an entirely different land. There are frozen waterfalls, crimson coloured trees, towering bare poplars, pristine freezing rivers in the winter—all making it a beautiful and novel experience.
It is a good idea to first explore the various sights in Leh, including the Shanti Stupa, Leh Palace, Tsemo Fort while acclimatising and also visit the old Jama Masjid while exploring the main market. The important monasteries of Alchi, Likir, Spituk all lie on the route to Kargil and can be clubbed with a visit to Basgo Fort, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib, the spectacular confluence of Indus and Zanskar at Nimmo and the optical illusion at Magnetic Hill.
Apart from the monasteries at Hemis and Thikse, there are other noteworthy monasteries of Shey, Stok, Matho and Chemrey, where you can experience zen-like bliss in the winters. These monasteries are located in vicinity of Leh.
Major attraction in the winters is crossing the 5350 m high Chang La and the possibility of walking on the frozen Pangong Tso (this has serious environmental implications though). A visit to the Tso Moriri is also an attraction for the diehard adventurers out there.
You can also go for a drive to Khardung La via what is, supposedly, world’s highest motorable road, crossing a sea of white and cross over to Nubra Valley. Turtuk village is prettier in winter and the landscape is a gamut of colours as the blue Shyok goes gurgling towards Pakistan. Also, kids around Leh can be seen playing ice hockey over frozen surfaces.
5. Precautions/tips
While Ladakh in the winters is highly rewarding, there are some precautions to take and stay sure that things don't go wrong. After all, traveling to Ladakh in winter means going to a place where the weather is unpredictable, basic amenities are bare minimum, chances of getting stuck somewhere are high and if you or anyone from the group falls sick, it is an invitation to serious trouble.
Tips to remember while visiting Ladakh in winters:
Do not venture into the cold of open air immediately after stepping out of the warmth of a room. Make sure every part of your body is covered well before venturing out in the chill of the winter air. Try not to have a bath during the duration of your stay in Ladakh. If staying at a homestay, remember that the kitchen is the warmest part of the house and it is better to spend more time there. A three-day course of Diamox medicine (to prevent AMS) is recommended, but only after consultation with a doctor.
It is suggested to eat regularly and consume extra food in order to keep yourself warm.
Stay hydrated by drinking tea and water at regular intervals. Keep a moisturiser at hand to make sure your skin doesn’t get overtly dry. Eat dark chocolate and nuts for energy. Do not hesitate to ask for help from locals if there is any kind of trouble. Another important tip is to
keep the fingers guarded while clicking pictures on the phone or camera; it is a good idea to make the settings inside the car, cover the fingers and then get out in the open for photography.
Some noteworthy inclusions: Wear sunglasses to protect from the reflection of the snow. Apply sunscreen generously; always carry medicines with you and a flask to keep water warm. Carrying sufficient photocopies of documents and ID proofs are also advised.
6. Packing for winter in Ladakh
While you may have heard about the rule of ‘layered dressing’ for trekkers on the Chadar Trek, it is also absolutely true for all of Ladakh as well. Rather than wearing a huge, bulky jacket, it is a much better idea to wear clothes in layers. While many of us may not be used to travelling in these close-to-Arctic conditions, the only way to stay warm is good clothes.Some necessities:
Jacket: It is ideal to have a down jacket that is warm enough to withstand temperatures of lesser than -20 Degree Celsius. A suggested way to dress would include a thermal inner, tee shirt, 2 sweaters, warm jacket and then the down jacket.
Lower: It is utmost important to keep the lower part of the body well-insulated from the cold. A warm inner and a jeans or lower is recommended.
Shoes and socks: A pair of trekking shoes or ankle length shoes are good for winters in Ladakh. The Quechua Forclaz 500 is a tried and tested product, and is reasonably priced as well. It is warm enough for winters in Ladakh and also does the job of walking on ice. It is a must to wear either one layer or two layers of warm woollen socks. Ladakh’s bitter cold has a good chance of seeping in through the feet, so they must be kept warm at all times. It also helps to have locally made, hand woven socks, for these are very warm.
Gloves and cap: A pair of warm gloves is a must for a winter trip to Ladakh. Another essential is a cap that covers both the ears and neck.
7. Most common itinerary for a winter trip to Ladakh
Day 1: Arrive in Leh: Acclimatisation is the order of the first day after reaching the cold of Leh at almost 10000 ft.
Day 2: Sightseeing in Leh: Include nearby monasteries; remember not to exert yourself by trekking, go for slow walks and drink lots of water to acclimatise perfectly and have no AMS troubles coming your way.
Day 3: Sightseeing around Leh: Visit the Magnetic Hill, confluence of Indus and Zanskar at Nimmo, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib and the monasteries at Alchi and Likir.
Day 4: Leh-Khardung La-Nubra Valley: You can stay at either Diskit or Hunder or Turtuk; club it with a visit to the Diskit Monastery and the stunning sights of Turtuk.
Day 5: Turtuk-Sumur-Khardung La-Leh: Visit the monastery at Sumur and the Ensa Gompa. Return to Leh and stay.
Day 6: Drive to Pangong via Chang La: Stay at a homestay in Spangmik, Man or Merak. Enroute, visit the monasteries of Hemis and Thikse.
Day 7: Pangong Tso to Leh: Return to Leh taking the same route. Since you would be well acclimatised by now, explore more around Leh and also shop in the markets for dry apricots.
Day 8: It is best to keep a buffer day in case of closure of Khardung La or Chang La due to a sudden change in weather in Ladakh.
Day 9: Fly back
8. AMS and hospitals
While it is important to make the most of your holiday and see as much as you can, it is in the rarified air of Ladakh that even the most well-laid out plans can go for a toss. Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS) is the biggest challenge for winter travel in Ladakh. Most of Ladakh is located at an average altitude of more than 3500m-4000 m, and winters mean no vegetation and hence even lesser oxygen.
Most of the tourists give in to the temptation of trying to see everything in a limited time, thereby increasing the chances of getting hit by AMS. This condition can progress to potentially dangerous situations of HAPE & HACE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema & High Altitude Cerebral Edema) if timely action is not taken, thus go slow.
It is advised to monitor the health and oxygen levels, acclimatise in Leh for the first 2 days of the trip and then move ahead with the winter trip. Drink plenty of water and butter tea and gauge the progress.
Sonam Norboo Memorial (SNM) is a centrally heated govt. run hospital in Leh. The charges are almost zero but it has limited facilities and infrastructure. So, you better take caution.
Local medical shops and PHCs (Primary Health Centres) are present in small towns in Ladakh. It is recommended to carry all kinds of medication and oxygen cylinder for any kind of emergency in the winters in Ladakh.
9. Shopping in winters
Although more than 80 percent of the market is closed, it is still a good time to shop for some products that are available at reasonable prices.
If you have insufficient winter wear when you arrive at Leh, warm jackets, lowers and other clothes can easily be brought. Some shops in the main market are open and hand-woven sweaters and socks available. One or two shops also sell locally-made footwear, which is quite warm and could make for an excellent souvenir back home.
Some areas of Ladakh produce the best apricots in the summers; locals dry them and they are an excellent buy from the streets. It is also a wonderful way to interact with oldies from faraway lands and know more about the amalgamation of cultures in Ladakh. Walnuts and almonds can also be brought.
There are one or two shops in the bylanes of Jama Masjid that make a fine variety of socks that are furry from the inside. And what more, they are available at a steal price of INR 150-200 a pair; they make for excellent gifts to be carried back.
Yak cheese can be brought from locals; apricot, apple and seabuckthorn jams are available at LEDG store that also sells pashmina shawls that are made at a NGO. Book lovers can try their luck at buying a rare book at one of the shops that are open in the winters.
10. Where to eat?
Eateries are few and far in the winters in Ladakh and most hotels and dhabas are closed. For breakfast and dinner, it is always advised to eat at your homestay or hotel and not to venture out after dark. Dogs on the streets can be a real menace in the winters of Ladakh.
In the main market in Leh, there are two noteworthy restaurants serving Kashmiri wazwan, bang on the mall road is Leh’s favourite place for Tibetan food—a warm place located on the top floor. There are two cheap dhabas tucked in the narrow alleys, both serve fabulous thukpas and a variety of momos.
If you are travelling via buses, make sure to eat whenever and wherever they stop; they usually stop at good places. If you are travelling in a hired SUV, it is almost certain that the taxi driver will know where to stop and eat.
A listing of food options region wise:
Nubra Valley: Dhaba at Khardung village and a Punjabi dhaba near the bus stop in Diskit.
Pangong Tso: The best bet is the dhaba at Karu that serves tasty paranthas and Indian food. One eatery at Tangtse may be open too.
Tso Moriri: A restaurant at Chumathang is open in the winter as well. The owners are kind people and make tasty food as per your requirement.
Kargil Road: You’ll find a dhaba near Basgo. One eatery at Khaltse also provides very tasty food.
Carrying high energy food like almonds, dates, chocolates etc. is recommended and is suggested to eat to make sure there are no big breaks between meals.
11. Approximate budget and cash requirement
There are hardly any ATMs outside of Leh. Therefore, it is always a good idea to be on the safe side with plenty of cash on you at all times. The SBI ATM in Leh is a safe choice and it is a must to withdraw cash before leaving for sightseeing to other parts of Ladakh in the winters.
Also, there are chances of an ATM not working or running out of cash, especially in winter. There may be a freak scenario of being stranded in a remote area for 2-3 days; extra money will be handy and of big help in getting out safely and in relative comfort during such an ordeal.
There is little chance of phone networks working outside of Leh. Airtel and BSNL work in Leh, while BSNL is your only resort outside Leh. Internet services are hardly present outside of Leh; in case of an emergency, contact the various Army headquarters that are enroute in Ladakh. They have internet and may allow you to use it.
12. Chadar Trek
The biggest attraction of winter in Ladakh is going on the frozen river trek called the Chadar Trek. In winters, waters of the Zanskar river freeze making it possible to walk on a big sheet of frozen ice called Chadar by the locals. The roads to Zanskar are closed in the winter and the Chadar Trek is the only possible way to reach. Locals have been walking this frozen river since time immemorial.
The trek starts in Chilling near the confluence of Indus and Zanskar rivers. The village of Chilling was founded by the families of Nepali copper craftsmen. The artisans still live in this village and run a few homestays in Chilling. The most popular trek route is till Nyerak, which is a 5-6 day experience.
The longer treks are till the monastery towns of Lingshed and Karsha in Zanskar. In recent times, there is a road being built along the trek trail that may jeopardise the future of Chadar Trek. Also, shifting weather patterns and global warming effects mean that the Chadar doesn't freeze as it used to and walking on it is an increasingly treacherous affair. There are many trek operators who organise Chadar Trek and can be contacted in Leh.
For more on a winter trip to Ladakh, send in your queries and feedback. We would love hearing from you. Happy Ladakh.
Read more: Kashmir in winter season: the best pictures ones you can lay
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